Discussion of A simple method to detremine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes, by J. P. Le Roux (Coastal Engineering 54(2007): 271-277)
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Discussion of A simple method to detremine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes, by J. P. Le Roux (Coastal Engineering 54(2007): 271-277)